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Dream borders

by Martin Blow -

www.specialperennials.com

The depth of winter is when I take time to dreamabout

the summer and imagine how the garden is going to

be when I’ve got it “just so”. Of course the great thing

about gardening is it’s never completely finished and

there’s always one more tweak to be made.

I’ve always loved the traditional herbaceous borders of

our

British stately gardens

and this winter I’ve been

thinking about how I might plan and plant one on a

smaller scale.

Firstly, aspect: the border will need some sun during

the day or your choice of plants will be severely limited.

Youmay be able to let more light in by pruning back or

removing overlarge shrubs.

Next the backdrop: traditionally a large, sheltering

hedge or wall. These are fine but don’t forget that

hedges take moisture and goodness from the soil and

walls cast a rain shadow. Fences, or shrubs are just as

good a backdrop, or dispense with one completely

and plant an island bed instead. A border along a

path with a lawn to the other side is just as traditional

and you can make this backdrop so much better by

edging the lawn to produce a neat, sculpted shape

.

Its a common “mistake” to dig a narrow border in a

small garden. To my mind it looks like the plants are

scared to be there and are cowering against the fence.

Learn from the grand gardens and give your borders

some depth.

The next point to consider is colour. Some people get

technical about it and others think it doesn’t matter. I

think the key is to choose one or two key colours for

the border. In traditional borders these key colours are

repeated at intervals along the border. This repeating

colour theme gives rhythm and visual structure to

the planting and is probably more important than

matching colour shades and tones within the planting.

Pick some tough plants, that quickly bulk up, are easy

to divide and flower again rapidly after planting as

your rhythm section. I like

Silk Flower

(Sisyrinchium

striatum) with its sword-shaped leaves and spikes of

cream flowers. It is easy to divide and establishes a

good clump quickly.

The next consideration is season of interest. It would

be lovely to have a border in full flower all through

the season but in reality this doesn’t happen with

perennials. There are lots of things you can do to

extend the season though.

Its tempting when you go to a plant fair in spring or

autumn to buy a selection of plants in flower and dot

these around your garden to give you some colour

everywhere. But this lacks impact, and grouping them

together in a block or strip in the border or bed packs

a real colour punch at lean times of year.

Think of plants with lovely buds or young leaves to add

interest early in the season.

Oriental Poppies

(Papaver)

and Bearded Iris have short flowering season but the

buds of the former and sword-shaped leaves of the

latter start looking good weeks before the flowers.

Giant Scabious

(Cephalaria) always have delightful

and very visible buds as do

Cornflowers

(Centaurea).

Cupid’s Dart

(Catananche) is another with lovely, long

lasting buds before the blue flowers open.

Traditional borders are planted with tall plants at the

back and shorter ones at the front but also think about

“spot plants”: upright, architecturally shaped plants that

are taller than those around them. Good perennials for

this areVeronicastrum, Bugbane (Actaea), RedHot Poker

(Kniphofia), Mullein (Verbascum) and Delphinium.

Planting distances vary but a good rule of thumb

is around 2ft / 60cm apart for large or very vigorous

plants and 1ft-1ft 6in 30-45cm for others. Don’t forget

to water plants even if it rains until the plants are

growing strongly – don’t drown them though!

Enough dreaming

, it will soon be time to sharpen the

spade and get digging for that dream border.

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FEATURE 43